With Mostar’s quaint cobblestone streets, stunning bright blue Neretva River, and iconic landmark of the Stari Most (“Old Bridge”), you’d almost forget that this magical city was once the center of violent conflict barely 2 decades ago. I only had one day in Mostar, but that was plenty enough to figure out that it’s one of my favorite cities in the world so far. And one of the most unique.
How to get there:
Located in the Balkans, you can reach Mostar from pretty much any destination in the region through bus transfers. If you’re on a budget, these buses are gonna be your best bet. I paid $10 for a 2 hour bus ride from Makarska to Mostar. FYI, there’s also an international airport in Mostar if you prefer to fly or are coming from farther away destinations. A lot of people do day trips to Mostar from nearby Balkan cities, but it was so incredible that I do recommend spending at least a couple nights here – I wish I did.
Getting around:
Mostar city center is small enough to get around on foot. The bus station, however, is about a 20 minute walk from the Old Town, so you could take a taxi like me if you don’t want to haul all of your luggage around town.
Where to stay:
Anywhere near the Old Town is your best bet of an awesome accommodation experience in Mostar. Also, the city is incredibly cheap – I got a nice hostel dorm room for $6 a night at Hostel Nina (highly recommend for budget backpackers), and mid-range hotels cost as little as $40 each night.
What to do:
If you only have a short time in Mostar like me, I recommend to head straight to Old Town and get started explorin’. Perched at the center of the town is the famous Stari Most, a 16th-century Ottoman-style bridge that was destroyed (and later rebuilt) in the Croat-Bosniak War of the early ’90s. In the summer months, you might see some brave souls jumping off the bridge into the river below.
Another important stop on any Mostar itinerary should be the ‘Don’t Forget’ stone. While Mostar is an undeniably beautiful city now, in the very recent past it went through a violent civil war with scars still evident. Many of the locals you see around town will have family, relatives, and friends that they lost during the war. The city still feels the effect of its divided population, and as a tourist you have a certain responsibility to pay attention to this stuff. The stone serves as a reminder to reflect on the city’s past. It’s located nearby the Stari Most bridge, you can’t miss it.
Next, weave your way through the small streets to visit the famous markets. Vendors sell everything from cloth dolls, traditional Bosnian clothes, painted plates, rugs, metal trinkets, and more. It has a distinctly eastern, Ottoman feel to it (I almost felt like I was transported to Turkey), and gives visitors a glimpse into traditional Bosnian culture.
If you’re looking for cool architecture and awesome views of the city, check out Koski Mehmed Pasha’s Mosque right nearby the Stari Most. For a small entrance fee of €6, you can visit both the small but fascinating mosque and have access to the staircase that leads to the best view of Mostar. After a little less than 100 stairs you reach a small platform minaret with sweeping views of the river, bridge, and old town. A must-see while you’re in Mostar! Visit in either the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the throngs of day-tripper tour groups.
Finally, visit one of the museums while you are here. I fell so deeply in love with Mostar that I was driven to learn more about its history, and so I asked a bunch of locals where I could find a museum. Unfortunately, no one I asked knew about a specific museum so I never ended up getting to visit one. However, I’ve found a couple on the internet that are worthy of your time: Muzej Hercegovine, the Old Bridge Museum, Muslibegovic House.
If you have more time, there are awesome day trips from Mostar to see more of surrounding Bosnia. Tekija Blagaj is a small village town located just outside of town in a 15 minute drive. Also Kravice Waterfalls offers dramatic scenery with a long wall of waterfalls into crystal clear blue water (reminds me of Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia). My hostel, Hostel Nina, offered tours to all of these locations, and I’m sure that most other accommodations can set these up for you as well.
Other tips:
Bosnia has its own currency, the Kovertible/Bosnian mark, but they also widely accept the Serbian dinar, Croatian kuna, and the Euro. Everything is insanely cheap here – a traditional Bosnian meal will cost you around $5 at a sit-down restaurant, even less at a street stall. I think I paid 25 cents for a scoop of gelato. Other small tip: I mistakenly wore an “I <3 Croatia” sleeping t-shirt here just around my hostel and was told to take it off from other visitors – tension still exists between many former Yugoslavian nations though the war ended many years ago. Be mindful of this!
