Belgrade: The Least Interesting Capital of the Balkans

The Balkans is my favorite region in Europe and perhaps the entire world, so far at least. I love everything about it, the rugged, untouched gems of cities, its inexpensive factor, its fascinating history and culture, and absolutely spectacular scenery from unspoiled beaches to mountains… It’s truly unparalleled in terms of adventure and diversity available to its visitors. Belgrade, in contrast, seemed cold, character-less, and really left something to be desired. That doesn’t mean there isn’t still interesting stuff to do here, though.

 

View of the Danube River from Belgrade Fortress in Belgrade, Serbia

 

I flew to Belgrade airport from Podgorica in Montenegro, and made my way to the city via the bus, which dropped us off at the central bus station. It was a mess – totally confusing in terms of signs and schedules, trash stacked everywhere, buildings crumbling, and overall a gray, gloomy vibe. I’m by no means a high-maintenance traveler where everything has to be perfect, but this bus station really stood out from every other country I’d been, so my first impressions of the city weren’t the best.
 

Once I checked into my hostel (totally amazing by the way: Fair and Square Hostel, stay there!) I ventured out to explore the city and it definitely got better. The architecture is still rather dark, but that’s what made it interesting to me. It obviously feels very Soviet-y because that’s its history, so even though the buildings aren’t bright and colorful, I was intrigued to explore and learn more.

 

Prince Mihailo Monument in Republic Square in Belgrade, Serbia
Prince Mihailo Monument in Republic Square

 

Walking street Knez Mihajlova on a sunny day in Belgrade, Serbia

 

Within a few hours, I had explored the entirety of the Old Town and all of the main attractions that Belgrade has to offer. The Old Town is basically just one wide-open street with shopping on either side; it doesn’t feel “old” in the sense of small, narrow alleys and century-old buildings like Ljubljana or Mostar, for example. Do check out the Kalemegdan Fortress, the oldest remaining element of the city which is mostly in ruins. As far as fortresses go, I’ve seen more impressive ones in Macedonia or Spain, but it was probably the most interesting attraction the city has to offer. It has views of the Danube River from up there as well. There is also a surrounding park to explore and stroll around, which was quite pleasant. Other main sights in Belgrade include the Church of Saint Sava with interesting Byzantine-inspired architecture, or Princess Ljubica’s Residence which is an important cultural and architectural landmark of the city.

 

Belgrade Fortress aka Kalemegdan Fortress in Belgrade, Serbia
The Fortress

View of Belgrade Fortress with garden of yellow flowers in Belgrade, Serbia

View of Danube River and Belgrade City from Belgrade Fortress in Serbia
Pretty view of the Danube River from the Fortress

 

Overall, I just didn’t feel that Belgrade had a distinctive character that made it stand out like other incredible cities and locations in the Balkans did. I never stumbled upon a street, a meal, or a building that particularly struck me as something extraordinary, nor did I meet a local that I really connected with. Usually it’s that spark that makes me fall for a city, but Belgrade was missing it in my opinion. In other words, I missed any sort of connection with the city. I finished seeing the main attractions within a few hours and found myself just killing time in cafes or shopping for the rest of the day.
 
Belgrade, however, is not all Serbia has to offer: there are some beautiful national parks such as Tara and Derdap that I didn’t have the chance to visit this time around. I do plan on returning to Serbia next time I’m in the Balkans to give it a second chance, because obviously Belgrade does not constitute the entire country!
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