Why I’ll Never Return to Koh Phi Phi

Koh Phi Phi is widely known as an elusive Thai paradise with alluring beaches and captivating natural scenery. While that is true to an extent, I quickly learned that it didn’t live up to the hype… One thing Koh Phi Phi does do well is partying, but if you’re looking for beautiful and unspoiled beaches, then I would look elsewhere in Thailand. The country is home to tons of other, better islands like Koh Lanta and Koh Samui.

 

Maya Bay with no tourists in Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

Unfortunately, Koh Phi Phi was the only Thai island on our itinerary this trip. Like many other travelers, I was drawn to the island from Leonardo DiCaprio’s movie The Beach. Filmed decades ago, it portrays Koh Phi Phi as this mysterious, untouched paradise – especially the island’s famous Maya Bay. Along with throngs of other tourists, we took a boat trip from Koh Phi Phi to nearby Maya Bay pretty much as soon as we arrived on the island.

 

The scenery was striking, I’ll give it that. Maya Bay has bright blue, still waters that gently ripple with the wind, and looming, impressive limestone mountains creating a natural perimeter around the bay. And then… the drunk party boat arrives and dozens of loud, belligerent people at once demolish the blissful atmosphere. Perhaps 50 long-tail boats dock in the sand, obstructing all views of the bay, and they keep on coming and coming throughout the few hours we spent there. White foamy bubbles which I assume are full of chemical waste from the boats linger in the water, and the sounds of the engines contribute further to the desecration of this “paradise.” I’m convinced that anyone left who still finds this beautiful is simply too drunk to have a grip on its grim reality.

 

Young woman riding a long-tail boat in Maya Bay, Koh Phi Phi, Thailand
First arriving in Maya Bay, in awe of the views

Long-tail boat docked at Maya Bay with limestone cliffs in the background in Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

Young woman posing at Maya Bay with limestone cliffs and turquoise water

 

Empty Maya Bay with calm waters and limestone cliffs in Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

 

Our boat hung around till much later in the afternoon when most other boats had left the bay. We got a quiet moment to ourselves

 

The rest of the town is similarly unpleasant. A putrid smell lingers everywhere you walk, and you can’t escape it no matter where you wander. Endless drunk backpackers hobble about the streets, leaving trash in their trails. Normally I’d just tolerate a trashy place like this for some sweet views, but like I said before, those were disappointing as well. I can’t figure out for the life of me why anyone still thinks this is an enjoyable place to be.

 

In my opinion, Koh Phi Phi is the unfortunate victim to overdevelopment and mass tourism. It’s a tiny island that has to live up to an international reputation, drawing in hundreds of thousands of visitors from all over the world. Massive hotels, clubs, and large-scale tour operators have taken over the island to the point that it is not even beautiful anymore. What could be a gorgeous beach in Koh Phi Phi is entirely overrun by long-tail boats in the harbor, trash scattered along the beach, and drunk backpackers ruining the peaceful ambiance. The island is simply too small to sustain this kind of hyper development. I doubt anything will change any time soon unless tourists start complaining, since that’s what drives the economy and structure there.

 

View of Koh Phi Phi island with town, palm trees, ocean, and mountains from Koh Phi Phi Viewpoint in Thailand

 

While I did somewhat enjoy Maya Bay’s pretty views, I cannot imagine a scenario where I would ever return to Koh Phi Phi in my life. Next time I’m in Thailand, I’ll head straight for other, less chaotic islands like Koh Samui or Koh Lanta. What were your thoughts on Koh Phi Phi? Did you find it equally as displeasing or did you love it instead?
This site uses cookies to offer you a better browsing experience. By browsing this website, you agree to our use of cookies.